OB'S BREWING 101

[overburdened]

OB's Brewing 101

ok, this one is coming in as segments,then if you guys want ill condense it to one post, once ive completed writing it...

remember guys, if you want directions on a specific compound,ask hereor pm me(if you want to remain anonymous), and ill post up specifics for that..

also,i will getinto oralsolutions and capping on another thread....if you want specifics on anything ljke that, let me know... as far as capping, i can give you filler amounts and everyghing(on a few different fillers), so if you want to use those fillers i can write instructions with all powder weights and e erything... i dont mind doing any of that, so you guys will feel comfortable taking that dive into brewing...
also, i dont mind walking anyone through their first brew... if you want me to do this, pm me and let me know a time and date, and illbe on pm to walk you tough(ill do thus as much as absolutely possile, but keep in mind that we may need to schedule a little with things like that being at i do have otber obligations as well, which include paying clients(bodybuilding, physique, diets, etc...) and, obviously those are priority...




Brewing101'

Here's a guide to making your own oil based aas. Everything in this guide can be extrapolated to apply to short esters, long esters, and long/short blends, as well as more complex blends, including high potency blends(to allow for fewer injections).

To start with, you will need a few pieces of lab ware. You actually have a fair bit of freedom with this, depending on how serious you are about brewing, and the type of quantities you are planning on making... So, you can actually get into it for very little cost, and expand if you feel comfortable doing so, if you even need to expand....

Here is a general list(based on small, personal use quantities... I'll also list things you can use in place of certain things....)



Heat resistant glassware(several pieces... 100ml minimum glassware is easier to work with)
Glass stir rod(this CAN be used but I choose not to use any type of stirring device, as it is just another method to possibly introduce bacteria.. I swirl everything)
Heat source(a stove top works fine if you make that area of your kitchen sterile... I'll get into that later)
A saucepan or skillet Different sized syringes used for measuring oil, solvents, etc(3,10,20,60 ml will all come in handy...)
A scale accurate down to. 01g is sufficient
90percent isopropyl alcohol
Solvents (for the most part benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate will suffice.... For more exotic compounds, guiacol and ethyl oleate will also come in handy.
Oil carrier of choice(I've found usp cottonseed oil to be the most smooth, you can use many different oils, and even blends of carrier oils)
Vials(either sealed, sterile vials, or vials with butyl stoppers and crimp caps)
Filtration system(this could be as small scale as syringe filters, or as big as 1000plus ml... Depending on your needs.


This wraps up necessary products needed to brew with, and are actually very easy to find online..

Next installation of this article will come soon

Brewing101' cont'd

To cover the basics of brewing(and, honestly, there are more ways to do this than the way I describe.... But, I feel for home purposes, safety purposes, and small scale operations (personal use), that this is the easiest, and best process to use.) The basis behind brewing is simply to get a powder /crystalline /solid(aas raws) to dissolve into an oily(oil based) carrier, so they may be delivered parenterally (by injection... Intramuscular in most cases.... NEVER INTRAVEINOUS, EVEN WITH WATER BASED AAS, SUCH AS TEST SUSPENSION, ETC). This can be accomplished using the following directions (these would apply, generally, to all injectable aas preparations.... Though some would have minor details changed) :

*decide the amount of finished product desired (or, decide how much finished product you can make, with the raw powder you have, at the potency desired.., whichever you choose) I'll go over math and conversions in one complete segment, so it can easily be referred to at any time.... But for example, you are wanting to make 100ml of test enanth at 250mg/ml(100ml X 250mg = 25000mg.... 25000mg=25g.. So you would need 25g of test enanth raw (I like to use a 10 percent upward variance, just to make sure nothing is ever UNDER dosed... You may want to do the same, and you may not... Just decide, then always use that method. That way your product is always consistent..... So 25g X 10 percent is 2.5g...so, I would use 27.5g instead of 25g, and my finished product would actually be 275mg/ml... So I know it's never dosed under!!!

*I like to keep things simple, so I'm going to tell you how to do the brew without ever having to get into figuring the displacement of the powder weights when dissolved, etc... You will measure out your finished volume in 90 percent isopropyl alcohol (you can use acetone if desired also.... It's actually my preference, since it evaporates clean, with No residue, in seconds.)., pour that volume into your glassware you will prepare your solution in. Mark(on outside of glass... With tape, or a sharpie.. Whatever) the line of the volume(in this case, 100ml)....so, you know exactly where your final fill level is, in the glassware you are using....

*dump isopropyl or acetone out if glassware and shake glassware til all liquid is out that will come out.... Gently warm the the glassware in the microwave to evaporate....

*once glassware is clear, clean, and dry, you will put your weighed powder(aas raws) into the glassware

*next, you will add solvents... The easiest way to remember the correct order of adding solvents, is to add the ones closer to the end of the alphabet, first (example : if using guiacol, you will add it before benzyl alcohol). Solvents can be a little tricky, but most of the time, benzyl alcohol and benzyl benzoate are sufficient.... I don't use guiacol myself, because of personal reasons, but it makes ester free compounds possible to make into solutions (tne, winny, anadrol, etc) ******word of caution, NEVER USE OVER 2.5 PERCENT BA.(FINAL SOLUTION CONCENTRATION), it can be necrotic to the tissue it is injected in, and it is a possible carcinogen.... There's ways to make higher potency gear with out overdoing the BA... It's not worth a necrotic lesion in your ass!!! ******** You can use the least amount(within reason... Cause they are both sterility agents and preservatives... As well as the fact, they thin the final solution to a degree, so it will flow smoothly through smaller gauge needles) of solvents necessary for whatever you are making... Short ester compounds generally require more solvents, and long esters require less, generally... If in doubt, go with 2/20 percent BA/BB....

***Back up a step... I spaced this... Put about 2"of water in skillet or saucepan and fill a glassware with about as much oil as you will want finished product, set glassware in water, gently bring water to a very low boil.... Let oil remain there heating til you are ready to use it.... It will bring it to about 200 degrees farenheit, and help sterilize it, as well as make it work better mixing solution and filtering, due to it being hit...

***put the glassware with raws and solvent in it, into the saucepan of slow boiling water.... Swirl it by holding the top with a paper towel(I just use my hands, after I sterilize them, but my hands are numb to quite high temps... The glassware will get hot!) every minute or two til raw is completely dissolved... Some take 30 min, but most are dissolved in 5 min or less(tren is highly heat sensitive, I'll write a separate article for brewing tren ace, just so you don't accident oxidize it...)

****once fully dissolved, you will either pour(if no condensation on outside of heated oil) or draw with large syringes, the hot oil, and add til it is to the line you've made at the 100ml mark... Then gently swirl for one full minute.

***filter finished solution into either sterile sealed or sterile unsealed vials(if unsealed, insert stopper, crimp ring, and crimp stopper on)



Brewing blends


**brewing blends can be done exactly like described prior... But, you can achieve much higher potencies with blends than is normally possible with single compound oils....

**example : Say we want a 300mg/ml 'cut blend' Using standard 2/20 BA/BB, we can get a blend of test prop/tren ace/master prop to hold perfectly, and isn't extremely painful(pip can be brought down more even, using eo/cso blend)

Just follow same directions... When heating oil, you will blend the eo and the cottonseed oil in glassware at percentage you want prior to heating in hot water bath.... Do everything else the same, and add eo/cso blend to fill line as if it were just regular cso.

I'll list some things you can use in place of lab glassware, for those that would like to be able to purchase the product at the store and take a wack at brewing before investing in Pyrex... I'll also list some cool blends, and their benefits, in the next installment....

Then I will get into oral solutions/suspensions and capping..... Keep checking back guys... And don't forget, if you want directions now, for something specific... Feel free to pm me....



TREN ACE

Tren ace directions For tren ace, you will follow the directions in brew 101, the only differences will be temp of water in saucepan and how you add solvents.

**You will want to have your water no hotter than 185F in saucepan, when making tren ace. Let oil heat in glassware for 30 min(so it is brought to 185F, like the water it is sitting in... That way the prepared tren does not have to heat any longer than absolutely necessary)

**when adding solvents, bring BA content down to 1.5%,but do not add it straight to powder.... You will draw up BB, and in same syringe, draw the BA into the BB, then add the solution to the powder.... Working quickly, move glassware with powder and solvent into hot water bath, do not set it down though. Keep ahold of the glassware and swirl gently til it is dissolved(this will only take 10 - 60 seconds... Pull it out of heat the second it's dissolved, add 185 degree oil to your line you have marked on glassware and swirl....

***filter and bottle..

It's imperative you work quickly and pay attention, tren oxidizes easily from heat, especially when BA is present.... You can make tren ace in excess of 120mg/ml with only 1.5%BA/20%Bb(however, I recommend making it at 75-100mg because it will put you down and you won't be able to breathe if you cough off 120+mg tren ace! Trust me know that... Lol)



Capping orals

To cap orals you will need the following:

Coffee grinder (any inexpensive one will work) Capping machine (these can be purchased on amazon.com for less than $30...I'm partial to the CAP M QUICK brand...

the 50 cap machine in that brand runs 28$... I prefer the size 0 caps/machine, this is the one the filler weights
I list will work with.,, if you get a different one, I'll explain how to calculate filler weight, but you will be on
your own to figure them out..)

A suitable filler(I normally use sugar, due to cost... you can use N-acetyl-cysteine for more toxic orals, I can give
you weights for that in about a week.. I forgot cause I haven't used it in a while) Empty caps... these can be purchased online or bought in some healthfood stores(the hippy stores usually have them.. they cost about $12 for 1000 caps..

That completes the list of things you will need...

I'll use superdrol as an example.. and tell you how to calculate everything, then I'll give you weights for size 0 caps...

For superdrol, you will want the caps to be 10mg each(of sdrol)... to make 100 caps you will weigh out 1g of sdrol(10mg x 100caps = 1000mg= 1g).. set this aside on a piece of paper til you are ready to mix everything... To calculate filler(filler is the extra substance you mix with the active compound in order to have the caps full to capacity, and contain only the desired amount of active compound... since trying to weigh and fill caps with only 10mg of sdrol powder would be nearly impossible to do with any accuracy, and could end uo being dangerous if you had any overfill on the caps), you want to take five capsules, set them on the scale and weigh them... then divide by five, this is your capsule weight(write it down... the size 0 NOW FOODS brand weigh .09g)... now, put those five caps in your cap
machine and fill them with desired filler.. tamp the filler, fill again, tamp, etc.. till cap is packed full... then
put bottom of cap on, and weigh them again(all 5).. divide that weight by 5 and subtract capsule weight... this will
give you your filler weight(ex: 5 filled caps weigh 3.2g.. 3200mg/5=640mg-90mg(cap weight)=550mg.. so filler
weighs 550mg(this is filler weight for sugar for a size 0 cap)...multiply this times 100caps... 550mg x 100=55000mg=55g...
55g of sugar is needed for 100 size 0 caps... Active compound weight doesn't affect total weight of filler and active unless your active is going to be 50mg or more... but, if you want everything EXACT, subtract active compound weight from the filler weight, and use the lower(subtracted)
filler weight(ex: we are using 1g of sdrol, subtract 1g from 55g=54g of filler)... You will want to put half the filler in coffee grinder, then put your active comp in, then the other half of the filler, so 27g sugar, 1g sdrol, then 27g sugar... close grinder, mix powders together for 2 minutes in the coffee grinder(I shake
and tilt the grinder while it's mixing, to get any product that may be sticking to the sides mixed in well...) Now, set-up capping machine, put empty caps in, then put powder on machine and fill caps using a card(credit card, drivers license... whatever), tamp, then fill again, tamp, etc.. till they're packed full... can them, take them out of capping machine...

Here is a little trick I use when I'm done... put a few tablespoons of salt in a bowl, put captain with the
salt and shake them in a circular manner... the salt removes any powder on the outside of caps, and removes any
moisture from your hands so the caps don't end up with any holes in them after sitting in a bottle for a while..
pull the caps out, letting salt fall through your fingers, transfer caps to a baggie or bottle... a little salt in
the bottle or baggie is fine(it's actually good cause iy absorbs any moisture while the caps are stored...

[PAiN]

Looks great bro. Yes once all of them are put together a condensed one all in one thread will work great. We can just keep editing this post if needed and adding to it.

[overburdened]

Looks great bro. Yes once all of them are put together a condensed one all in one thread will work great. We can just keep editing this post if needed and adding to it.
sounds good. ill keep updating regularly so this will be as complete as possible as soon as possible.

also guys, we have sponsors that carry most of these supplies... if you need to know where to get something you cant find, pm me... i dont like broadcasting to the world where to get solvents, etc(we want these places to be operating still, down the road)

[PAiN]

Updated! Thanks OB this is going to be the best brewing guide on the net!

[overburdened]

i have tons more in my head... lets have some input from members on other things they would like to see. im working on oral solutions and caps, and will have those finished soon... anyone interested in anything in particular, let me know.

thanks for getting those up there for me pain, one of these days ill get my pos laptop fixed so you dont have to keep doing that for me.

[Swampjuice]

Love this thread! Thanks OB for all the info! Looking forward to reading about your oral solutions! especially halo

[APACHE SOLDIER]

This is one of the easiest brewing threads I've read, great info brother, appreciate the knowledge!

[Thesuperwallaby]

Great thread! I feel like I can save a shit load of money learning some stuff like this.... Keep it coming!!

[overburdened]

Sorry I haven't posted any follow ups in a while, ill get on typing oral solutions up, and go from there.

[ram97!]

Thanks ob. Wasnt even interested in brewin till i started reading your posts. Is it really that easy to do liquid orals or am i missing something

[overburdened]

Liquid orals are the most simple thing you can make. Nearly everything can be put in liquid solution or suspension as well. There are a couple that are just too horrible tasting, and should be capped but ill let you know in the write up, which ones those are

[bhcolex50x]

Subd

[JM750]

All I can say is this thread right here is priceless! I been wanting to try home brewing for a while now, but just didn't know enough about it.

[Big Moose]

Very good info here...:rolleyes:

[overburdened]

Here is a reply I sent someone telling them how to make oral solutions.... This applies to most orals....

Winny is a good one to start with, its pretty easy. It will hold at 50mg/ml pretty easy, so ill use that concentration for directions. For 5g, that will make 100ml at 50mg/ml.... Get a plastic water bottle and dump the water out... Measure 100 ml of water and pour it back in the bottle and mark with a sharpie, where 100ml fills to, on the outside of bottle. Dump water back out...(1oz is 30ml, fluid... So 100ml is 3 1/3oz...). Put 5g winny powder in bottle, add everclear(pure grain alcohol...190 proof if available, 151proof will work if can't get 190), a little at a time, swirling with each addition.... As soon as winny is dissolved in everclear you will add glycerin to fill line you made with a sharpie... Cap bottle, shake well... Now you have 100ml of 50mg winny solution. Its best to transfer that solution to amber colored tincture bottles to protect from light...
Everclear cost $12 or so for a pint(will make about 25g worth of oral solution)
Glycerin cost $4 for 6oz at Walmart.... That's enough for about 15-20g of powder for solution...
Tincture bottles cost about $3 with bulb dropper cap to measure dose. They come in sizes smaller than 10ml, and as big or bigger than 500ml.... I suggest120ml, tthat way your 5g batch fits in one bottle...

[overburdened]

Okay guys, I've slacked long enough... With this sale on orals, I need to get the capping section put up on the sticky... Ill be typing it first thing in the morning, then it will get posted here, at the bottom of the first post in the thread... I will include capping machine info, cap size with filler weights, etc... So its all laid out super simple... I have had TONS of pm regarding orals since as2 is running that kick ass sale... Rather than typing it 100 times I'm going to buck up and get it posted here so everyone has the info....
If you are waiting on this to take advantage of that sale, go ahead and get what you want coming... All compounds will be addressed as to capping or solutions...

[PAiN]

Okay guys, I've slacked long enough... With this sale on orals, I need to get the capping section put up on the sticky... Ill be typing it first thing in the morning, then it will get posted here, at the bottom of the first post in the thread... I will include capping machine info, cap size with filler weights, etc... So its all laid out super simple... I have had TONS of pm regarding orals since as2 is running that kick ass sale... Rather than typing it 100 times I'm going to buck up and get it posted here so everyone has the info....
If you are waiting on this to take advantage of that sale, go ahead and get what you want coming... All compounds will be addressed as to capping or solutions...


Hell yeah brother! This is an epic thread!

[jdb3]

this is awsome

[ODB]

i have tons more in my head... lets have some input from members on other things they would like to see. im working on oral solutions and caps, and will have those finished soon... anyone interested in anything in particular, let me know.

thanks for getting those up there for me pain, one of these days ill get my pos laptop fixed so you dont have to keep doing that for me.

have a good recipe for TNE?

[overburdened]

Capping instructions with filler weight will be posted up VERY soon, its all typed..

[overburdened]

have a good recipe for TNE?

Ive found tne is easiest made using guaiacol(12%for 100mg tne), eo(5-10%), ba(2%),bb(18-20%)... Using same instructions as in brewing101... I haven't got it to hold at 100mg/ml using any less solvents... If anyone has, please chime in...

[HARD AT IT]

LOL!!! Your a stone cold bad ass!!!! Great to be apart of this family with you bro..

[overburdened]

LOL!!! Your a stone cold bad ass!!!! Great to be apart of this family with you bro..
lol... thanks bro

[PAiN]

Updated with capping instructions for orals and Sdrol!!!!

[4everstrong]

Been waiting for this ^^ where is it at?

[overburdened]

Its at beginning of sticky

[4everstrong]

I found it Thanks bro! Very detailed and easy to follow.

[overburdened]

No problem!

[sofargone561]

nice write up

[overburdened]

nice write up

Thanks bro

[superdave]

awesome, thanks

[Plumcrazy]

Can't wait! I will PM you for info on some specific compounds.
Cheers

[Jrod0928]

Thanks i have been wondering how that worked and if it was possible on a small scale...

[roadie]

Great read, thanks

[jsnm]

Wow that was a great read,I'm getting more interested in this whole subject,this is a huge help,thank you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Mass3000]

It's perfect for the guy trying to save for a show. Good info, I'm sure some of our basic UGL should copy and paste so they actually learn how to use simple math. Ha

[polarbear]

not done learning yet. been considering my own at home, though i'm new altogether.
it'd be well worth knowing and doing.

[gerry007]

awesome, just what i was looking for. thanks

[Emman]

Good post might have to give this a try

[bigmills]

Thanks bro
What's up brother I was wondering if you could clear your inbox a little bit so I could send you a message?

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

[Kvasir]

This was a very helpful thread

[Kaboomrage]

This thread is $$ have been looking for a good thread to get a good base and ideology of brewing! I'd like to know where to find the other stickies are for this.

[MS906]

Would you use the same method for tren E as you would for tren A ?

[Offthehook]

Great Thread and info,
I'm new to home brewing, just beginning to order all my supplies need to get set up.
I have a friend who a has a home brew lab setup, we have a small circle.
I'm every interested in making my own now, again thanks

[Hades]

OB's Brewing 101

ok, this one is coming in as segments,then if you guys want ill condense it to one post, once ive completed writing it...

remember guys, if you want directions on a specific compound,ask hereor pm me(if you want to remain anonymous), and ill post up specifics for that..

also,i will getinto oralsolutions and capping on another thread....if you want specifics on anything ljke that, let me know... as far as capping, i can give you filler amounts and everyghing(on a few different fillers), so if you want to use those fillers i can write instructions with all powder weights and e erything... i dont mind doing any of that, so you guys will feel comfortable taking that dive into brewing...
also, i dont mind walking anyone through their first brew... if you want me to do this, pm me and let me know a time and date, and illbe on pm to walk you tough(ill do thus as much as absolutely possile, but keep in mind that we may need to schedule a little with things like that being at i do have otber obligations as well, which include paying clients(bodybuilding, physique, diets, etc...) and, obviously those are priority...




Brewing101'

Here's a guide to making your own oil based aas. Everything in this guide can be extrapolated to apply to short esters, long esters, and long/short blends, as well as more complex blends, including high potency blends(to allow for fewer injections).

To start with, you will need a few pieces of lab ware. You actually have a fair bit of freedom with this, depending on how serious you are about brewing, and the type of quantities you are planning on making... So, you can actually get into it for very little cost, and expand if you feel comfortable doing so, if you even need to expand....

Here is a general list(based on small, personal use quantities... I'll also list things you can use in place of certain things....)



Heat resistant glassware(several pieces... 100ml minimum glassware is easier to work with)
Glass stir rod(this CAN be used but I choose not to use any type of stirring device, as it is just another method to possibly introduce bacteria.. I swirl everything)
Heat source(a stove top works fine if you make that area of your kitchen sterile... I'll get into that later)
A saucepan or skillet Different sized syringes used for measuring oil, solvents, etc(3,10,20,60 ml will all come in handy...)
A scale accurate down to. 01g is sufficient
90percent isopropyl alcohol
Solvents (for the most part benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate will suffice.... For more exotic compounds, guiacol and ethyl oleate will also come in handy.
Oil carrier of choice(I've found usp cottonseed oil to be the most smooth, you can use many different oils, and even blends of carrier oils)
Vials(either sealed, sterile vials, or vials with butyl stoppers and crimp caps)
Filtration system(this could be as small scale as syringe filters, or as big as 1000plus ml... Depending on your needs.


This wraps up necessary products needed to brew with, and are actually very easy to find online..

Next installation of this article will come soon

Brewing101' cont'd

To cover the basics of brewing(and, honestly, there are more ways to do this than the way I describe.... But, I feel for home purposes, safety purposes, and small scale operations (personal use), that this is the easiest, and best process to use.) The basis behind brewing is simply to get a powder /crystalline /solid(aas raws) to dissolve into an oily(oil based) carrier, so they may be delivered parenterally (by injection... Intramuscular in most cases.... NEVER INTRAVEINOUS, EVEN WITH WATER BASED AAS, SUCH AS TEST SUSPENSION, ETC). This can be accomplished using the following directions (these would apply, generally, to all injectable aas preparations.... Though some would have minor details changed) :

*decide the amount of finished product desired (or, decide how much finished product you can make, with the raw powder you have, at the potency desired.., whichever you choose) I'll go over math and conversions in one complete segment, so it can easily be referred to at any time.... But for example, you are wanting to make 100ml of test enanth at 250mg/ml(100ml X 250mg = 25000mg.... 25000mg=25g.. So you would need 25g of test enanth raw (I like to use a 10 percent upward variance, just to make sure nothing is ever UNDER dosed... You may want to do the same, and you may not... Just decide, then always use that method. That way your product is always consistent..... So 25g X 10 percent is 2.5g...so, I would use 27.5g instead of 25g, and my finished product would actually be 275mg/ml... So I know it's never dosed under!!!

*I like to keep things simple, so I'm going to tell you how to do the brew without ever having to get into figuring the displacement of the powder weights when dissolved, etc... You will measure out your finished volume in 90 percent isopropyl alcohol (you can use acetone if desired also.... It's actually my preference, since it evaporates clean, with No residue, in seconds.)., pour that volume into your glassware you will prepare your solution in. Mark(on outside of glass... With tape, or a sharpie.. Whatever) the line of the volume(in this case, 100ml)....so, you know exactly where your final fill level is, in the glassware you are using....

*dump isopropyl or acetone out if glassware and shake glassware til all liquid is out that will come out.... Gently warm the the glassware in the microwave to evaporate....

*once glassware is clear, clean, and dry, you will put your weighed powder(aas raws) into the glassware

*next, you will add solvents... The easiest way to remember the correct order of adding solvents, is to add the ones closer to the end of the alphabet, first (example : if using guiacol, you will add it before benzyl alcohol). Solvents can be a little tricky, but most of the time, benzyl alcohol and benzyl benzoate are sufficient.... I don't use guiacol myself, because of personal reasons, but it makes ester free compounds possible to make into solutions (tne, winny, anadrol, etc) ******word of caution, NEVER USE OVER 2.5 PERCENT BA.(FINAL SOLUTION CONCENTRATION), it can be necrotic to the tissue it is injected in, and it is a possible carcinogen.... There's ways to make higher potency gear with out overdoing the BA... It's not worth a necrotic lesion in your ass!!! ******** You can use the least amount(within reason... Cause they are both sterility agents and preservatives... As well as the fact, they thin the final solution to a degree, so it will flow smoothly through smaller gauge needles) of solvents necessary for whatever you are making... Short ester compounds generally require more solvents, and long esters require less, generally... If in doubt, go with 2/20 percent BA/BB....

***Back up a step... I spaced this... Put about 2"of water in skillet or saucepan and fill a glassware with about as much oil as you will want finished product, set glassware in water, gently bring water to a very low boil.... Let oil remain there heating til you are ready to use it.... It will bring it to about 200 degrees farenheit, and help sterilize it, as well as make it work better mixing solution and filtering, due to it being hit...

***put the glassware with raws and solvent in it, into the saucepan of slow boiling water.... Swirl it by holding the top with a paper towel(I just use my hands, after I sterilize them, but my hands are numb to quite high temps... The glassware will get hot!) every minute or two til raw is completely dissolved... Some take 30 min, but most are dissolved in 5 min or less(tren is highly heat sensitive, I'll write a separate article for brewing tren ace, just so you don't accident oxidize it...)

****once fully dissolved, you will either pour(if no condensation on outside of heated oil) or draw with large syringes, the hot oil, and add til it is to the line you've made at the 100ml mark... Then gently swirl for one full minute.

***filter finished solution into either sterile sealed or sterile unsealed vials(if unsealed, insert stopper, crimp ring, and crimp stopper on)



Brewing blends


**brewing blends can be done exactly like described prior... But, you can achieve much higher potencies with blends than is normally possible with single compound oils....

**example : Say we want a 300mg/ml 'cut blend' Using standard 2/20 BA/BB, we can get a blend of test prop/tren ace/master prop to hold perfectly, and isn't extremely painful(pip can be brought down more even, using eo/cso blend)

Just follow same directions... When heating oil, you will blend the eo and the cottonseed oil in glassware at percentage you want prior to heating in hot water bath.... Do everything else the same, and add eo/cso blend to fill line as if it were just regular cso.

I'll list some things you can use in place of lab glassware, for those that would like to be able to purchase the product at the store and take a wack at brewing before investing in Pyrex... I'll also list some cool blends, and their benefits, in the next installment....

Then I will get into oral solutions/suspensions and capping..... Keep checking back guys... And don't forget, if you want directions now, for something specific... Feel free to pm me....



TREN ACE

Tren ace directions For tren ace, you will follow the directions in brew 101, the only differences will be temp of water in saucepan and how you add solvents.

**You will want to have your water no hotter than 185F in saucepan, when making tren ace. Let oil heat in glassware for 30 min(so it is brought to 185F, like the water it is sitting in... That way the prepared tren does not have to heat any longer than absolutely necessary)

**when adding solvents, bring BA content down to 1.5%,but do not add it straight to powder.... You will draw up BB, and in same syringe, draw the BA into the BB, then add the solution to the powder.... Working quickly, move glassware with powder and solvent into hot water bath, do not set it down though. Keep ahold of the glassware and swirl gently til it is dissolved(this will only take 10 - 60 seconds... Pull it out of heat the second it's dissolved, add 185 degree oil to your line you have marked on glassware and swirl....

***filter and bottle..

It's imperative you work quickly and pay attention, tren oxidizes easily from heat, especially when BA is present.... You can make tren ace in excess of 120mg/ml with only 1.5%BA/20%Bb(however, I recommend making it at 75-100mg because it will put you down and you won't be able to breathe if you cough off 120+mg tren ace! Trust me know that... Lol)



Capping orals

To cap orals you will need the following:

Coffee grinder (any inexpensive one will work) Capping machine (these can be purchased on amazon.com for less than $30...I'm partial to the CAP M QUICK brand...

the 50 cap machine in that brand runs 28$... I prefer the size 0 caps/machine, this is the one the filler weights
I list will work with.,, if you get a different one, I'll explain how to calculate filler weight, but you will be on
your own to figure them out..)

A suitable filler(I normally use sugar, due to cost... you can use N-acetyl-cysteine for more toxic orals, I can give
you weights for that in about a week.. I forgot cause I haven't used it in a while) Empty caps... these can be purchased online or bought in some healthfood stores(the hippy stores usually have them.. they cost about $12 for 1000 caps..

That completes the list of things you will need...

I'll use superdrol as an example.. and tell you how to calculate everything, then I'll give you weights for size 0 caps...

For superdrol, you will want the caps to be 10mg each(of sdrol)... to make 100 caps you will weigh out 1g of sdrol(10mg x 100caps = 1000mg= 1g).. set this aside on a piece of paper til you are ready to mix everything... To calculate filler(filler is the extra substance you mix with the active compound in order to have the caps full to capacity, and contain only the desired amount of active compound... since trying to weigh and fill caps with only 10mg of sdrol powder would be nearly impossible to do with any accuracy, and could end uo being dangerous if you had any overfill on the caps), you want to take five capsules, set them on the scale and weigh them... then divide by five, this is your capsule weight(write it down... the size 0 NOW FOODS brand weigh .09g)... now, put those five caps in your cap
machine and fill them with desired filler.. tamp the filler, fill again, tamp, etc.. till cap is packed full... then
put bottom of cap on, and weigh them again(all 5).. divide that weight by 5 and subtract capsule weight... this will
give you your filler weight(ex: 5 filled caps weigh 3.2g.. 3200mg/5=640mg-90mg(cap weight)=550mg.. so filler
weighs 550mg(this is filler weight for sugar for a size 0 cap)...multiply this times 100caps... 550mg x 100=55000mg=55g...
55g of sugar is needed for 100 size 0 caps... Active compound weight doesn't affect total weight of filler and active unless your active is going to be 50mg or more... but, if you want everything EXACT, subtract active compound weight from the filler weight, and use the lower(subtracted)
filler weight(ex: we are using 1g of sdrol, subtract 1g from 55g=54g of filler)... You will want to put half the filler in coffee grinder, then put your active comp in, then the other half of the filler, so 27g sugar, 1g sdrol, then 27g sugar... close grinder, mix powders together for 2 minutes in the coffee grinder(I shake
and tilt the grinder while it's mixing, to get any product that may be sticking to the sides mixed in well...) Now, set-up capping machine, put empty caps in, then put powder on machine and fill caps using a card(credit card, drivers license... whatever), tamp, then fill again, tamp, etc.. till they're packed full... can them, take them out of capping machine...

Here is a little trick I use when I'm done... put a few tablespoons of salt in a bowl, put captain with the
salt and shake them in a circular manner... the salt removes any powder on the outside of caps, and removes any
moisture from your hands so the caps don't end up with any holes in them after sitting in a bottle for a while..
pull the caps out, letting salt fall through your fingers, transfer caps to a baggie or bottle... a little salt in
the bottle or baggie is fine(it's actually good cause iy absorbs any moisture while the caps are stored...

Hey mate ive tried to pm you but i cant since you have exceeded how.many messages you can hold...
Could you please pm me
Cheers

[bulk_cut]

Hey mate ive tried to pm you but i cant since you have exceeded how.many messages you can hold...
Could you please pm me
Cheers

He hasn't been online since 8-10-2013

[GurthQuake]

It's on

[ProFit]

Great read, thanks

[Raw]

Getting my education, thanks

[Oldskool]

Wow this is incredible. Thx

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[CMR1972]

Hey guys trying to get everything together to brew some test cyp and deca.
I bought a vacuum setup thinking it would save time but I can't get anything to run thru the filters I got with the hand vacuum pump I have.
First tried heated Olive oil just a few drops a minute will go thru. Tried water same thing. Do I need more vacuum I've seen electrical pumps fairly cheap.
Got a few pics for ya here too on the setup ect. Can anyone tell me about these filters? You use the part on the upper left of photo correct? I'm assuming the other part with lines is a part you don't use.
Thanks for any help.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190427/91e584ea5e5a904deef320d1c16346bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190427/a89d32b2cb896b5175921badc70a680e.jpg

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[The Wildman]

Hey guys trying to get everything together to brew some test cyp and deca.
I bought a vacuum setup thinking it would save time but I can't get anything to run thru the filters I got with the hand vacuum pump I have.
First tried heated Olive oil just a few drops a minute will go thru. Tried water same thing. Do I need more vacuum I've seen electrical pumps fairly cheap.
Got a few pics for ya here too on the setup ect. Can anyone tell me about these filters? You use the part on the upper left of photo correct? I'm assuming the other part with lines is a part you don't use.
Thanks for any help.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190427/91e584ea5e5a904deef320d1c16346bb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190427/a89d32b2cb896b5175921badc70a680e.jpg

Sent from my SM-N950U using TapatalkFirst thing yes you need a decent vaccum pump the hand held just dont give enough vaccum to Flow..you must have continued vaccum to keep the fluid moving that is why it wont flow through the filter...

[The Wildman]

Cool bro anything you need to know just holla at me..

[CMR1972]

Cool bro anything you need to know just holla at me..Ya I've got a few questions the filters I pictured. The actual filter is the part with the grid on it the other part is not right?

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[CMR1972]

Cool bro anything you need to know just holla at me..If you'd like to chat I've got allot of questions

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[The Wildman]

No problem bro we can i love this shit its a art as long as your sare with it i have no problems helping you out with whatever..

[The Wildman]

Typo safe

[CMR1972]

Cool so I've been thinking and with this setup there's no way around the solution hitting air again so would you draw into syringes and filter again into pre made vials?

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[The Wildman]

No.. pour your mix in your beeker put the top on it and vacuum it down and all your solution in the bottom beeker is clean..there is no better filtration system better than what you have you just need the right things to make it work..

[The Wildman]

I tried that seringe filter bullshit and it takes so much time and you get no where but frustrated...

[CMR1972]

Vaccum pump is on the way. I've got premade vials so after the stuff goes the bottom just draw up in syringes and put in premade vials? Did you catch the filter question I had? Look at the pic if you could please. The filter is the one with the lines right? The other is just to keep it protected and discard after opening right?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190429/44832db546902d693164471ebdee5cf4.jpg

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[The Wildman]

No thats a cover for you filters

[The Wildman]

I have 2 set ups and here are my filters and how they look..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190429/28da004c009229ad85a537deea58b053.jpg

[Gmen3901]

Subbed


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[CMR1972]

I have 2 set ups and here are my filters and how they look..https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190429/28da004c009229ad85a537deea58b053.jpgOk so it alright for solution to be in air contact after filter pullthru? I didn't want to invest in a capper yet so I think I'm stuck with syringes for now but I could prolly sub a faster filter in syringes being it's already been filters once right?

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[The Wildman]

Yes the air is not what hurts your solution contaminated vials and beekers.as long as your vials and beekers are sterile the air dont really matter unless yiu have stuff floating around in the room your brewing in..

[CMR1972]

Yes the air is not what hurts your solution contaminated vials and beekers.as long as your vials and beekers are sterile the air dont really matter unless yiu have stuff floating around in the room your brewing in..Also I wanted already sterile vials too didn't want to mess with all that yet.

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[The Wildman]

Its easy to sterilize the stuff. But you MUST do that before you can even filter your gear..

[CMR1972]

Can u pull to much vaccum in a row like mine? the pump I bought goes to 4.5 CFM

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[The Wildman]

No you can never have to much vacuum


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[CMR1972]

Sterilization let's chat I'm planning on using pressure cooker and then baking everything until dry is that ok?

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[The Wildman]

Sterilization let's chat I'm planning on using pressure cooker and then baking everything until dry is that ok?

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That’s cool that’s exactly what I do..


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[1tuffcookie]

i usually nuke everything after i use my auto clave

[gravy]

That’s cool that’s exactly what I do..


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Any chance you can explain method used? Not really keen on buying autoclave

[The Wildman]

Any chance you can explain method used? Not really keen on buying autoclaveHey bro!! I use my pressure cooker on steam for 3 minutes to sterilize everything first then i put it all in the oven to dry it all out.. oven on 350 for about 4 to 5 minutes and leave it there until your ready you use them..

[silntrunin]

Bro all you need is a better filter setup, your trying to pull oil through a restricted opening. Why not use a a bottle top filter on a media bottle. The hand pump would work fine then. 44993

It would be a lot easier and faster.

[xxgainsxx]

How do you go about sterilising the vacuum and media bottle the next time you go to use it?

[THX]

How do you go about sterilising the vacuum and media bottle the next time you go to use it?
Here is how I do it.

Since a lot of people have asked me about how to sterilize lab equipment, vials etc
I've finally decided to write summary on how to do it.
There are a lot of misconceptions about sterilizing lab equipment. I'm going to try to keep it short and simple
but at the same time give you a little deeper understanding.

You should ALWAYS do your own research and not believe things you read on forums, ALWAYS!

Here is a list of the most important things that you'll need:
Autoclave/pressure cooker
Distilled water
Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) or ethanol (both high concentration)
Surgical gloves
Surgical mask

Less important things:
Autoclave pouches/bags
Autoclave tape
Lab wash bottle



First thing you need is the actual device that you're going to sterilize your lab equipment with.

Autoclave = Expensive and can be rather big. You can get a used one cheap, but you can run in to problems with it. This is the most convenient device (except for buying pre-sterilized things)

Steam sterilizer (autoclave) = That's essentially a pressure cooker with a gauge, usually 18 liter. This is your best option. You can get one from ebay fairly cheap.

Pressure cooker = You can find a regular pressure cooker anywhere. Only problem is not all pressure cookers get up to the right pressure/temperature.

The autoclave/pressure cooker has to reach this temperature/pressure:
121°C (250°F) 15psi 15min
or
132°C (270°F) 30psi 3min

It's the steam/pressure/temperature combination that kills off all the "bad things". So you're not allowed to cover your beakers/Erlenmeyer/vials with aluminum foil.

You can also get autoclave bags. Those bags usually have an indicator that changes color if the right temperature is reached. There is also autoclave tape that does the same thing.



Assuming all the lab equipment/vials (which they are if they are new) are washed and cleaned here is what you do:

1.Alcohol (preferably high percentage isopropyl alcohol but ethanol works as well) to clean your working area and lab equipment with.

2.You'll need distilled water (get a big jug) since you can fill "lab wash bottle" and rinse your lab equipment/glassware after cleaning it with alcohol (so no residue is left, that's why high grade alcohol is preferred)
The distilled water is used for the autoclave/pressure cooker as well. It's used because it won't leave any minerals/residue after it evaporates which regular water does.

3.If you decide to get a regular pressure cooker don't forget to buy a "vegetable steamer basket" since you can't place your vials/equipment on the bottom of the pressure cooker.
You don't need that much water in the pressure cooker. 2.5 - 4cm (1 - 1.5 inches) is usually enough. There should be a little space between the water and the bottom of the "vegetable basket" (You'll know how much water you'll need)

4.Follow the instructions of the pressure cooker or steam sterilizer (autoclave) and just set the time yourself (on your phone or something). Usually those steam sterilizers get up to 121°C (250°F)/15psi so 15min should be enough but I'd go with at least 30min.

5. Let the pressure cooker/steam sterilizer cool down. Now you'll notice that all your equipment is wet/steam/drops etc.
Remove/pour out the water and heat it up a little bit again just so your things get dry.



If you guys think that "baking" your things in the oven will sterilize your lab glassware/vials, you're wrong.
Bacterial spores like Bacillus species and Clostridium are usually very heat resistant. It's harder to kill those types of spores with dry heat, the steam, heat and pressure combo neutralizes them.
Here is how:
Have you ever boiled an egg? Well that's pretty much what pressure and heat does to the protein inside of the bacteria, virus etc.

For those guys that think that alcohol will sterilize stuff, wrong again. Alcohol is a DISINFECTANT, spores are resistant to this method.


With all this said, you shouldn't be paranoid. Some UG-labs don't even bother sterilizing
their vials, some don't even filter their oils. Heard stories about people pinning unfiltered
gear with no issues at all.
But what if your body can't handle that bacteria/virus etc. Then you're fucked. Best case scenario
you just get the flu, worst case, amputation and/or death.
Hope this kills some of the misinformation people are spreading.

At the end of the day the only thing that we can do is minimize the risk of contaminating our gear.
Stay safe bros! //THX

[silntrunin]

Here is how I do it.

Since a lot of people have asked me about how to sterilize lab equipment, vials etc
I've finally decided to write summary on how to do it.
There are a lot of misconceptions about sterilizing lab equipment. I'm going to try to keep it short and simple
but at the same time give you a little deeper understanding.

You should ALWAYS do your own research and not believe things you read on forums, ALWAYS!

Here is a list of the most important things that you'll need:
Autoclave/pressure cooker
Distilled water
Isopropyl alcohol (isopropanol) or ethanol (both high concentration)
Surgical gloves
Surgical mask

Less important things:
Autoclave pouches/bags
Autoclave tape
Lab wash bottle



First thing you need is the actual device that you're going to sterilize your lab equipment with.

Autoclave = Expensive and can be rather big. You can get a used one cheap, but you can run in to problems with it. This is the most convenient device (except for buying pre-sterilized things)

Steam sterilizer (autoclave) = That's essentially a pressure cooker with a gauge, usually 18 liter. This is your best option. You can get one from ebay fairly cheap.

Pressure cooker = You can find a regular pressure cooker anywhere. Only problem is not all pressure cookers get up to the right pressure/temperature.

The autoclave/pressure cooker has to reach this temperature/pressure:
121°C (250°F) 15psi 15min
or
132°C (270°F) 30psi 3min

It's the steam/pressure/temperature combination that kills off all the "bad things". So you're not allowed to cover your beakers/Erlenmeyer/vials with aluminum foil.

You can also get autoclave bags. Those bags usually have an indicator that changes color if the right temperature is reached. There is also autoclave tape that does the same thing.



Assuming all the lab equipment/vials (which they are if they are new) are washed and cleaned here is what you do:

1.Alcohol (preferably high percentage isopropyl alcohol but ethanol works as well) to clean your working area and lab equipment with.

2.You'll need distilled water (get a big jug) since you can fill "lab wash bottle" and rinse your lab equipment/glassware after cleaning it with alcohol (so no residue is left, that's why high grade alcohol is preferred)
The distilled water is used for the autoclave/pressure cooker as well. It's used because it won't leave any minerals/residue after it evaporates which regular water does.

3.If you decide to get a regular pressure cooker don't forget to buy a "vegetable steamer basket" since you can't place your vials/equipment on the bottom of the pressure cooker.
You don't need that much water in the pressure cooker. 2.5 - 4cm (1 - 1.5 inches) is usually enough. There should be a little space between the water and the bottom of the "vegetable basket" (You'll know how much water you'll need)

4.Follow the instructions of the pressure cooker or steam sterilizer (autoclave) and just set the time yourself (on your phone or something). Usually those steam sterilizers get up to 121°C (250°F)/15psi so 15min should be enough but I'd go with at least 30min.

5. Let the pressure cooker/steam sterilizer cool down. Now you'll notice that all your equipment is wet/steam/drops etc.
Remove/pour out the water and heat it up a little bit again just so your things get dry.



If you guys think that "baking" your things in the oven will sterilize your lab glassware/vials, you're wrong.
Bacterial spores like Bacillus species and Clostridium are usually very heat resistant. It's harder to kill those types of spores with dry heat, the steam, heat and pressure combo neutralizes them.
Here is how:
Have you ever boiled an egg? Well that's pretty much what pressure and heat does to the protein inside of the bacteria, virus etc.

For those guys that think that alcohol will sterilize stuff, wrong again. Alcohol is a DISINFECTANT, spores are resistant to this method.


With all this said, you shouldn't be paranoid. Some UG-labs don't even bother sterilizing
their vials, some don't even filter their oils. Heard stories about people pinning unfiltered
gear with no issues at all.
But what if your body can't handle that bacteria/virus etc. Then you're fucked. Best case scenario
you just get the flu, worst case, amputation and/or death.
Hope this kills some of the misinformation people are spreading.

At the end of the day the only thing that we can do is minimize the risk of contaminating our gear.
Stay safe bros! //THX


Nice post!

But if your only brewing for yourself or a small group its not cost effective to buy an autoclave and all the other things mentioned. Don't get me wrong, if you have the means then get the equipment.

Having said that, I've been brewing for quite some time and have never had any issues using just alcohol and sterilizing breakers in the oven. Again not exactly professional but it works. I've never had any infections using my own brews, had plenty of flu symptoms using other UGL gear though. Plus the oil will be filtered anyway so you shouldn't have any issues.

As far as the media bottles if you buy the plastic ones (pictured), just toss after each use so no worries on sterilization. You can get the whole thing together filter and media bottle. One use and done. Why mess with sterilizing media bottles (although I have used glass ones also) but just easier to dispose after use.

xxgainsxx, not sure what you mean about sterilizing the vacuum.

If your an UGL then by all means you should be using equipment list above but if your just brewing for yourself and a few buddies or to sell a little to cover your costs then you really don't need all that equipment. Thats just my feelings on the subject. I'm sure some will agree and some will disagree.

[xxgainsxx]

Nice post!

But if your only brewing for yourself or a small group its not cost effective to buy an autoclave and all the other things mentioned. Don't get me wrong, if you have the means then get the equipment.

Having said that, I've been brewing for quite some time and have never had any issues using just alcohol and sterilizing breakers in the oven. Again not exactly professional but it works. I've never had any infections using my own brews, had plenty of flu symptoms using other UGL gear though. Plus the oil will be filtered anyway so you shouldn't have any issues.

As far as the media bottles if you buy the plastic ones (pictured), just toss after each use so no worries on sterilization. You can get the whole thing together filter and media bottle. One use and done. Why mess with sterilizing media bottles (although I have used glass ones also) but just easier to dispose after use.

xxgainsxx, not sure what you mean about sterilizing the vacuum.

If your an UGL then by all means you should be using equipment list above but if your just brewing for yourself and a few buddies or to sell a little to cover your costs then you really don't need all that equipment. Thats just my feelings on the subject. I'm sure some will agree and some will disagree.

Cheers mate! Yeah just for myself
I have heard the plastic media bottles break super easily and I’d hate to waste a batch


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[THX]

Nice post! But if your only brewing for yourself or a small group its not cost effective to buy an autoclave and all the other things mentioned. Don't get me wrong, if you have the means then get the equipment. Having said that, I've been brewing for quite some time and have never had any issues using just alcohol and sterilizing breakers in the oven. Again not exactly professional but it works. I've never had any infections using my own brews, had plenty of flu symptoms using other UGL gear though. Plus the oil will be filtered anyway so you shouldn't have any issues. As far as the media bottles if you buy the plastic ones (pictured), just toss after each use so no worries on sterilization. You can get the whole thing together filter and media bottle. One use and done. Why mess with sterilizing media bottles (although I have used glass ones also) but just easier to dispose after use. xxgainsxx, not sure what you mean about sterilizing the vacuum. If your an UGL then by all means you should be using equipment list above but if your just brewing for yourself and a few buddies or to sell a little to cover your costs then you really don't need all that equipment. Thats just my feelings on the subject. I'm sure some will agree and some will disagree. You clearly haven't read everything I wrote.

[THX]

Cheers mate! Yeah just for myself I have heard the plastic media bottles break super easily and I’d hate to waste a batch Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Those filters aren't made to filter oil. Pressure will 90% of the time make the plastic media bottles crack. I think some people have had some luck with autofil bottles.

[omgerdansk]

thanks for the useful information.

[BrunoFICAGRANDE]

very nice

[Big Sarge]

It’s been some years since this post but is this still the standard for brewing?


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